Songkhla and its outlying areas are known for their cooing doves. One road of the market was lined with doves in cages and other birds, including an unhappy looking commorant. A handful of old women sat with bowls of squirming somethings that turned out to be ant larva harvested from bamboo stems. This would have seemed to obviously be bird food, except the first old woman I saw with such a bowl was picking up the squirmy stuff, complete with angry red ants, and bringing them to her nose to smell. I thought it might be a snack treat. It was bird food.

onwards